11/23/2019 Kenmore Style Master 909873 Repair Manual
In the early 80's, Whirlpool completely redesigned their standard washing machine model. The result is the 'Design 2000' series, known in the parts houses as 'Whirlpool direct drive' models. The most obvious feature of the design is that it does away with all drive belts. The motor is coupled directly to the transmission and pump. Other major changes include a new pedestal tub mounting system, a plastic tub with integral tub fittings, a liquid-ring basket balancing mechanism, and a mechanically direct-reversing transmission. Also, most of the component parts of the washer are held in place by spring clips or just a few screws, making them easy to replace.
A clutch drum and shoes (mounted atop the transmission) allow the basket to come up to speed slowly during the spin cycle. The clutch drum rotates and is driven by gears inside the transmission. Similarly, a set of brake shoes (attached to the spin tube) contact a drum (attached to the bottom of the mounting pedestal) to provide a basket braking action to the tub whenever the washer is NOT in the spin cycle. Changing between the agitate and spin cycles is accomplished mechanically within the transmission when the motor reverses.
Kenmore Style Master 909873
In buying transmission and clutch parts for these machines, you may come across the term 'neutral drain.' Early versions of these machines began spinning with water still in the tub, so-called 'direct spin' machines. A redesign created a 'neutral drain' machine, where the tub would start draining before spin occurred. In order to service just about anything else in the washer, you must remove the whole cabinet as shown in Figure DD-2.
If you need more space when performing a particular operation, you can twist the tab in the bottom center of the back of the cabinet. This will allow the back panel to drop away from the washer a little. To change the transmission, you will need to remove the bottom panel as shown in Figure DD-2. It is possible to service the pump and motor by removing the bottom panel only, but I do not recommend it. Space is tight and it can be very difficult. The pump is especially difficult; getting the hose clamps on and off can be a real son-of-a-gun. Better to just remove the cabinet; it's not difficult at all.
4-3 WHAT TYPICALLY GOES WRONG WITH THESE MACHINES After removing the cabinet, the machine can be started for testing by jumpering the lid switch leads. As always, when operating the machine without the cabinet, be careful not to touch any live electrical or moving parts. SYMPTOM: NOISY OPERATION A grinding noise during the agitate or spin cycle may mean that the motor coupling is damaged, but usually it is coming from the transmission.
If so, replace the transmission. (Sections 4-8 & 4-9). SYMPTOM: LEAKS Any leaks are likely to be coming from one of three places: 1) The pump.
See section 4-4. 2) Early models had a small problem with the drain hose nipple (where the drain hose attaches to the back of the washer.) It used a spring-type hose clamp, which was prone to coming off. (Figure DD-3) Remove the clamp and replace it with a regular stainless steel worm-type clamp. 3) The centerpost seal can leak.
Look for water coming from underneath the center of the tub. To replace, see section 4-7.
SYMPTOM: TUB NOT DRAINING If the motor is turning, but the water will not drain from the tub, replace the pump as described in section 4-4. Often the pump has failed because the impeller has disintegrated, so make sure that you clear the hoses (especially the drain hose) when changing the pump Sometimes the check valve comes off the pump, and clogs the drain hose. If the motor is not turning, see section 4-8. SYMPTOM: NOT AGITATING AND / OR SPINNING Check the usual things, i.e. Main power, timer, switches, etc. As described in sections 2-6(a) thru (e).
There is an unusual timer problem that sometimes pops up in these machines; see section 2-6(c). The red wire in the motor harness is known for breaking inside the harness, where you can not see it. To test, pull gently on the red motor harness wire (don't yank it TOO hard!) If it comes off, you need to reconnect it or get a new wiring harness. If spin is O.K.
But the washer is not agitating, check for a stripped agitator spline or dogs as described in section 4-5. Likewise, if the 'ears' of the transmission spin tube have been known to break off; the symptom will be no spin. If the motor is not turning, see section 4-8. If the motor is turning, remove the motor as described in section 4-8 and check the transmission coupling. If it is badly damaged or destroyed, the transmission has locked up. See section 4-9. If the motor is turning, and the transmission coupling looks okay, the transmission may be broken internally, or the clutch or brake may be malfunctioning.
Remove the transmission as described in section 4-9 and check both the springs and linings on the clutch and brake. If the springs are broken or the linings are worn, replace as described in section 4-10.
Usually there will be a squealing noise associated with worn clutch or brake shoes. If the clutch and brake are O.K., try turning the transmission input shaft by hand.
Turn in both directions and see if the agitator shaft and clutch drum are doing anything. If not, something has broken inside the transmission. SYMPTOM: TUB WON'T BALANCE (Even after you redistribute the clothes) See section 4-6. Also look to see if any of the suspension springs mentioned in section 4-7 are broken. 4-5 AGITATOR The agitator is held to the driveshaft by a bolt.
To get to it, remove any softener dispenser by pulling it straight off. Remove the agitator cap by pulling or prying off with a screwdriver (depending on what kind you have; see Figure DD-5.) Remove the center bolt and tug straight up on the agitator skirt to remove. If you have trouble removing the bolt, see section 3-8 in Chapter 3.
Inspect the spline of the shaft and the agitator for wear. If the agitator is slipping on the agitator driveshaft spline, replace it. There will be a fourth, counterweight spring attached to either the left front bracket or the center rear bracket. CAUTION: Mark all brackets and springs to be sure you get them back on the washer in exactly the same place.
Remove the brackets from the tub. Scrape any soap deposits off the centerpost, and lubricate it with some liquid soap so the tub will slide off easily. Pull the tub straight up and off the centerpost. To replace the centerpost seal, squeeze it from inside the tub and push it through the bottom of the tub to the outside. Re-assembly is the opposite of dis-assembly. Make sure all springs and brackets are in their original places.
If any springs are broken, replace all four as a set. 4-8 MOTOR AND COUPLING These machines have an external motor starting capacitor located in the console, not anywhere near the motor. To find it, open the console as described in section 4-2 and look inside the left side of the console. Before handling the motor, you must discharge and test the capacitor as described in section 2-6(e).
The motor coupling will break if the transmission locks up while the machine is running. It simply presses on to both the motor and transmission shafts. (Figure DD-11) Do make sure the machine is unplugged before removing the motor. If the motor is humming but not turning, remove it from the transmission as follows: (Figure DD-11.) Disconnect power and remove the cabinet.
(Section 4-2). Following the safety precautions in section 1-4(4), lay the washer on its back and remove the two screws holding the bottom panel in place. Remove the bottom panel. Remove the two spring clips holding the pump to the motor. No need to remove the pump hoses; just slide the pump off the motor shaft.
There may be two motor harness connectors, or only one. Disconnect it (them). Two spring clips hold the motor to the transmission. (Figure DD-11) There may be screws holding the spring clips on; these are put on for shipping, and need not be re-installed. Remove the spring clips, and the motor will slide off. Try turning the transmission by hand, in both directions. If it will not turn, it is locked up.
Replace it as described in section 4-9. If it does turn easily, then either the starting switch or motor is bad. Test and repair as described in section 2-6(e). 4-9 TRANSMISSION Removal of the transmission is a relatively simple matter in these machines. Remove the agitator, basket and drive block. (Section 4-5, 4-6 & 4-7) No need to remove the tub; just the drive block.
Lay the washer on its back and remove the two screws holding the bottom panel in place. Remove the bottom panel.
Remove the two spring clips holding the pump to the motor. No need to remove the pump hoses; just slide the pump off the motor shaft. There may be two motor wiring harness connectors, or only one. Disconnect it (or them).
Remove the three transmission mounting bolts (Figure DD-12) and slowly pull the transmission straight out.
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The type of washer will not experience a suds lock like other washers will. It is likely that this washer will not drain because the drive motor is not running. The drain pump is coupled to the drive motor in this type of washer. Your likely problem is a wiring failure or drive motor failure.
A failed lid switch will prevent the motor from running on some models of Stylemaster washers. The number that you submitted in your details is not a model number. The Kenmore model number for this type of washer will begin with 110.8. Try to find the model number is this format and resubmit your question if you need more help with this problem. We may be able to provide more specific troubleshooting with the model number. This type of failure will normally require a service technician.
Here is a link for the Sears Service website: Sears Home Services.
We chose the Kenmore because our previous washer was also a Kenmore and we had had it for 9 years and never had a problem. We would have brought it with us but the buyers of our previous home requested that we leave it with the house, as they had also had good experience with Kenmores. Our current Kenmore washing machine has been just as reliable. It has never required service and is the solid and consistent work horse it has always been. Our family does lots of rugged outdoor activity - rock climbing, hiking, and the boys love to play football in the mud.
My husband makes pottery and gets clay and dust on his work shirts. For these loads, the extra heavy soil cycle works great to get even the grimiest clothing clean. But I also have more dainty clothing and lingerie with lace and other delicate details. I simply don't have time (or interest) for hand washing, and with this machine, I don't need to! I wash these using the machine's delicate cycle.
And delicate it is. I never have to worry about their care - these items come out clean without harm to their intricacy. The other thing I love about it is that it is relatively quiet. My mom's Maytag washing machine is loud and especially rumbly during the spin cycle. It also goes 'off balance' frequently, which makes a loud buzzer sound off and requires manual intervention to rebalance the clothing so that the cycle can complete.
I don't know if my Kenmore has an 'off balance' buzzer, but if it does, I have never heard it because I have never had that problem come up. The great thing about it is that this washing machine was among the least expensive of those in its class when we were shopping for washing machines. So not only did we get the quality and reliability that was important to us, but we were able to do it well within our budget without compromise. Oct 15, 2013 Rating Lasted 14 years! By: Staci Note: not sure what 'Rate This Page' is for, but I rated 5 Stars for the Washing Machine.- This worked great for us for 14 years. The lid switch died after 12 years, so I wedged a butter knife in there until DH electronics wiz bypassed the switch for me.
Two days ago, machine started making horrible motor or transmission noise and stopped spinning. The siphoning of the water continued, thankfully!
In a way, I'm okay with it breaking down because I would love to get a more water-efficient, energy efficient front loader. All in all, I'm happy with the way my Kenmore Series 70 Heavy Duty washing machine performed all these years. Jan 14, 2012 Rating Sears washer 70 series junk by: Anonymous Bought a new kenmore because of how long our last one worked. Very soon after buying this one we noticed holes in our clothes and rust stains.
Called the service department and they asked what color the drum was. Ours is grey. He told me there was problem with that drum and if it had been the white one they would replace it. Said it would be cheaper to just buy a new one than to pay for shipping and installation of a new drum. I will be buying a new washer and it won't be a sears ken more product. Poor quality and service from sears.
Nov 29, 2011 Rating Kenmore 10 70 series has been amazing! By: Anonymous Ahhh, the wonderful Kenmore 70 'Heavy Duty' series. I bought a pair in spiffy almond color, along with a matching 20 cubic foot 'side by side' refrigerator in 1991/2. Almond was a $20 'upcharge'. The refigerator still works wonderfully. Ice maker rules.
Looks funny to most of my friends. I clean the coils about every three months or when I remember to.
My dryer needed a 'Thermal Cutoff Kit' kit once, and it took me about 15 minutes to install it. I bypassed the lid safety switch on the washing machine today and may or may not order a new switch. Kids are grown and I am always home while doing laundry anyway.
20 years of terrific service from the trio and still going STRONG. Well done, Whirlpool/Kenmore. Nov 06, 2011 Rating Wonderful product by: Happy Customer I purchased the heavy duty 70 series washer and 80 series dryer in 1995. I had the dryer barings replaced last year and have never had any issues with either product. Unfortunately it is not enegery efficient any longer so it's time to trade them in for a new one.
I sure got my moneys worth over the years. I have a family of 4, a son who plays both football and baseball so nothing but dirt and grass stains.
I average 8-10 load a week. The machine cleans well and dries well. All I did was wipe it down weekly and cleaned the softner dispenser on the agitator. I will but another Kenmore. Apr 06, 2011 Rating Reliable.Reliable.Reliable!
By: Clean in Colorado I have a Sears Kenmore 70 Series - Model 110 Washer & matching Heavy Duty Dryer. I bought the set in 1996 from a couple living in my apartment complex in Atlanta, GA. They had just gotten married and both had washer/dryers already. This was very fortuitous for me, because I have NEVER had any problems from either of these machines! Over the span of the years I have owned them, I have averaged 2 - 3 loads per week (mainly on weekends) as I am an outdoors-oriented person who 'plays in the dirt' (2-wheels as well as 4-wheels) a lot. I will also add that the only laundry detergent system I have ever used in the machines is a brand called 'SA8' manufactured by Access Business Group and only available from an Amway distributor. The selling point for me was that this particular brand of detergent has a special coating that protects the internal metal components of the washing machine from premature rust (I got a demonstration of how that works).
I like to think of it as 'rust-proofing my washing machine' while I wash my clothes. All I know is that I have never had a problem with the machine since using the product (knock on wood). I will buy another Kenmore (if/when that day comes) and I will continue to use the same laundry care system in it. Jan 07, 2011 Rating agitator problem by: cypress vol To Mars PA: what are the 'dogs' in the agitator? Our agitator ends up twisting the clothes into long strands. The 'cap' on it came off over a year ago, and I can't figure out how to get it to stay on again. Our series 70 W/D are over 16 years old and running fine.
Just in case that last sentence jinxes me and they give out, does anyone know which current model #'s are their equivalents? I tried searching Google by that and came up with info overload, but no real answer to my question. Oct 20, 2010 Rating NIGHTMARE by: Anonymous HAVE ALWAYS OWNED WHIRLPOOL PRODUCTS & LOVED THEM. WHEN WE MOVED INTO OUR NEW HOME, WE WENT TO SEARS FOR NEW APPLIANCES. THE SALESMAN CONVINCED US THAT WHIRLPOOL NOW MAKES KENMORE WASHERS & SOLD US ON THIS MACHINE. FROM DAY ONE, WE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS.
IT HAS SHREDDED A COUNTLESS NUMBER OF TOWELS & IN SPITE OF THE FACT THAT THE SEARS REPAIRMEN HAVE BEEN HER NUMEROUS TIMES TO FIX IT, THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. NOW, WE HAVE DEVELOPED A NEW PROBLEM, THE AGITATOR FALLS OFF WHEN IN THE MIDST OF ONE OF THE SPIN CYCLES. NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES WE HAVE PUT IT BACK ON, IT KEEPS FALLING OFF. NEEDLESS TO SAY, WE WOULD ABSOLUTELY NEVER RECOMMEND THIS MACHINE TO ANYONE NOR WOULD WE RECOMMEND PURCHASING FROM SEARS WHO ALTHOUGH THESE PROBLEMS HAVE ALL BEEN DOCUMENTED, REFUSES TO REPLACE THE MACHINE. Aug 24, 2010 Rating Model 10 by: Mars, PA Purchased a Kenmore washer 10 and matching electric dryer new in late 1988. Over the past 14 years averaging 7-9 loads per week due to kids.
Never had a problem with either until late January 2010. Washer no longer would enter the spin cycle.
Would drain the water but no spin. Searched the internet for solutions, looked at new models at Lowe's and Home Depot, ultimately decided the transmission was gone. Repair folks said to scrap as it would cost $500 to fix. Other than lacking the spin nothing ever wrong with the machine. Decided to repair myself.
New transmission in excess of $300. Purchased a rebuilt unit for $125 total and delivered to my house, there are even less expensive rebuilds on ebay.
Tackled replacing the transmission on a Saturday, about 3 hours later back in business, no problems since. If your washer does not enter spin and sounds like this: You need to replace your transmission. My youngest son assisted me and it was really a fun time for both. Also, while replacing the transmission I took the time to replace the 'dogs' in the agitator, now the agitator turns in both directions again. I believe in using 'stuff' until truly worn out.
With a new transmission this machine might run another ten years or so. Jun 06, 2010 Rating Sin problem by: Anonymous Can anybody tell me why my 70 series sometimes leaves clothes too wet, as in sopping after the last spin? It is spinning and fast and I can hear it sucking water into the drain. It's about 2 years old and this started about a month ago on the fast cycle.
I have not caught it doing it on the perm press cycle. Like I said it is spinning. I can't find a parts blow up to see how to get the agitator out. I took the bolt out of the center but when I pull up on it it won't move. Thanks [email protected].
Nov 27, 2009 Rating reply to the person asking abou the mildew smell by: Anonymous I also have this problem, and today my husband took it apart and found that the wash basin, the part that holds the water, is rusting and the water is dripping out now. He's trying to fix it long enough for us to use till we can get another one. He's using a rust converter that is typically used on cars that have rust. We dont know if it will work, but it's worth a try. Our set is over 25 years old, and he's maintained them himself. I think it's time for a new set, but we arent going to just stick with the Kenmore brand this time. Good luck and hope your problem isnt as bad as ours is.
Sep 23, 2009 Rating Cubic Foot Capacity of Kenmore Washer by: Anonymous I saw several questions posted here about the cubic foot size of this washer. Has anyone received an answer or does anyone have an owner's manual for the 70 series Model 0? I need to find out what the capacity of my machine is because it is broken, but no one seems to know and no one has an owner's manual or specifications. I've tried calling Sears/Kenmore but they don't have records on machines that are over 20 years old.
This has been a great washing machine and I want to replace it with one the same size - but I don't know if it's a 3.5 cr what capacity. If you have any informtion, I'd really appreciate it. You can also e-mail me at [email protected] Thanks. Aug 05, 2009 Rating worked well for 20 years by: Anonymous I bought this washer in 1986 and it's still going strong after 23 years. I haven't needed a repair man once and have had absolutely no trouble with this washer (or my Kenmore dryer bought at the same time). I am thinking it's time for a new washer and dryer but I'm afraid they don't make things to last anymore. I'm skeptical about what brand to buy but keep leaning towards Kenmore because of my experience with Kenmore products.what to do, what to do.hold on to my old tried and true or take a chance on a new machine.
Jul 18, 2009 Rating Durable machine by: Cade Pros - top loading machine so the user does not have to worry about his/her child crawling in to the machine. three water levels so the user doesn’t waste water and laundry soap. Cons - older washing machine It is not one of the newer high efficiency units. doesn't have newer fancy features such as steam pretreating. As many Kenmore products are, this washer is definitely durable and it is a long lasting machine. The particular machine I am reviewing was first put in service in 1998 and has done many loads of laundry since then.
The washing machine is a top loading washing machine and it has two speeds. The machine has four cycles.
The cycles are heavy duty, permanent press, normal, and delicate. Additionally, there are 2nd rinse, soak, spin, and prewash cycles. The user may choose from three water levels.
There are four water temperature settings including cold/cold, warm/cold, warm/warm, and hot/cold. Additionally, the user may add both the liquid chlorine bleach and the liquid fabric softener at the beginning of the washing cycle and the washing machine will automatically add them to the laundry at the appropriate time in the cycle.
In general this is a great machine for either a busy family or a single person. Jul 05, 2009 Rating Kenmore 70 series tub size by: Anonymous We've had our Kenmore 70 series for 16 years and they've been great, but, now we're also in the market for a new set. I talked to a salesman at Sears, and he said he thought the tub size on this model was probably around 3 cubic ft. I've measured it myself, and it seems to be close to the 3.5 models that they are making now. Being that Whirlpool is involved with most of the major brands now, we'll probably go with a 'no bells and whistles' Whirlpool model.I hope this helps. Jun 26, 2009 Rating How many CU.
By: Laura I own a Kenmore heavy duty 70 series extra capacity plus. 92575110 serial CE5175035. I bought this machine from Sears right about 19 to 20 years ago. It has been a great machine and starting about 5 yrs ago started to show signs of wear and tare. I have had the cupplings replaced 2 or three times now and just last week the motor on the door broke down and it wouldnt rinse. I have had it fixed but my repair man said this machine is on its last legs. I am looking at new ones and am trying to find the same size as the one I have but I do not know the CU.
Of thsi model. Can anyone help? If so could you please e-mail me at [email protected] Thank You Laura.
Apr 14, 2009 Rating Kenmore 700 series top loader washer by: Anonymous my lady K 700 series is 29 years old! Find photoshop cs3 serial number. It has been a wonderfulmachine from the porcelain tub to the porcelain body this heavy duty wonder is all workhorse. It has gone from being used every single day to now just a couple of times a week.
It has come thorough for me with all the settings and water temps. And the large capacity I raised two boys and all their jeans on this washer. Afraid to buy another one from what I read on the internet buying any of the new ones is a nighmare. Will stick w/ the Lady K as long as she's willing! Sears never had a better washer than this one.
Dec 05, 2008 Rating Reliable!! By: Baddbonz We bought our Model 110 70 Series washer & dryer set in 1992 from a couple who were getting divorced. I searched the serial #s and found that both machines were manufactured in July 1990.so they are almost 20 years old! Both machines have been EXTREMELY reliable.
This past Summer we had our first service ever on the washer, to replace a leaking water pump, and have the agitator rebuilt. Total cost was around $200.much less than a new machine! For the dryer, we had a gas-valve replaced a year or so ago, as there was no heat. I think that was about $100 to fix. In short, both machines very reliable and durable! Nov 23, 2008 Rating Nice Range of options by: Anonymous I've had this washing machine for over a year and I really like it. It has done a great job at cleaning every item I have washed with it.
It seems to get a load of clothes done faster than my previous washing machine. It has a nice range of options, so you be sure that you are getting the correct washer setting for the type of load you are doing. The only real complaint I have is that it seems to get unbalanced more often than my previous washing machine. That's easily fixed by rearranging the clothes inside, but it's a pain at times.
Nov 23, 2008 Rating Just one problem by: Anonymous This is a used washing machine that was bought through the classifieds of my local newspaper. Even though it is old, it has worked just fine for the year and a half that I've owned it. It is not like the newer machines with a digital display, but it works great and gets the job done.
The only problem is with larger items like a comforter, it sometimes gets lopsided during mid cycle like most older machines do. But for the price and reliability, it is well worth it. Nov 20, 2008 Rating Looooong lasting machine by: Anonymous I absolutely adore my old Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Series washing machine. I bought it almost a decade ago from an older lady who got it new several years before.
That means this machine must be nearly 20 years old! Nevertheless, this is the best machine hands down that I have ever owned, and I've owned several! Not only has this Kenmore outlasted every other machine I've ever had, it's an all-around better machine as well. They don't call it Heavy Duty for nothing! The tub on my Kenmore will easily hold several pairs of jeans and do a great job of getting them clean.
I can wash my feather/down full-sized comforter in this beast. It will handle a full set of bedding (sheets, pillow cases, two blankets and a mattress pad) in one load. It has three load size choices so you don't have to use more water than you need. From small to medium to large, with large being VERY large, this washer has it. It has five cycles and I use them all. The most handy cycle is the Cotton/Sturdy cycle, with settings for heavy, medium or lightly soiled clothes.
Next most used would be the Knit/Delicate cycle, then maybe the Permanent Press, Pre-Wash and Pre-Soak cycles. It has five (yes, five!) water temperature choices, from Cold/Cold to Hot/Cold and everything in between to make sure your clothes get the right combination to keep them in shape and color-fast. Combinations of these five cycles with the three load sizes and the five water temperature choices provide you with laundry ease. I haven't done the research to determine whether there's a new Kenmore to equal the one I have now because I'm afraid to do anything that might jinx 'Old Reliable'. Surely there have been improvements in washing machines over the past two decades, and those front loaders do look tempting.
However, I would be just as happy to keep my faithful Kenmore for many years to come.
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